







Free written scope consultation - allowances, timeline, and change-order rules on paper before a single trade is scheduled
Toto Home Additions & ADU: The Fort Worth Owner's Guide
If you're planning a home addition or ADU around Toto fixtures and components, expect to budget $45,000 to $130,000 for the full build in Fort Worth, with ADU construction running $90,000 to $220,000. We install and rough-in for Toto toilets, bidets, and lavatory systems inside additions and accessory dwelling units across Fort Worth, and we can usually have a scope and written price in your hand within days of the first walkthrough. Most owners call us after they've already bought or roughed in Toto fixtures and hit a wall: the plumbing rough-in doesn't match the fixture specs, the subfloor isn't rated for the unit, or the addition framing doesn't leave enough chase space for the supply and waste lines Toto systems require.
Here's what you need to know before you spend another dollar: Toto rough-in dimensions are not universal, Fort Worth slab foundations make re-routing waste lines expensive when the layout is wrong, and a written scope before work starts is the only thing that keeps a five-figure addition from becoming a six-figure argument.
Which Toto Models This Applies To

Toto splits its product lines into a few families that matter for additions and ADUs. The Drake, Drake II, and Eco Drake lines run a standard 12-inch rough-in, but the Aquia, Nexus, and Legato skirted models change the rough-in math depending on whether you're using the standard tank or the in-wall carrier. The Washlet+ series is the one that catches most Fort Worth homeowners off guard: the supply line and electrical rough-in are built into the toilet itself, which means your plumber and electrician need to coordinate wall blocking and a dedicated 15-amp circuit before drywall goes up. Retrofitting a Washlet+ after the walls are closed costs real money.
On the ADU side, Toto's Neorest and Washlet units pull more water volume and need a pressure-balancing valve that matches spec. If the ADU is on the same supply line as the main house and your water pressure drops below 35 PSI, the unit will run but the washlet spray pressure will feel weak. We check this on every addition walkthrough. The model sticker is usually inside the tank or on the underside of the bowl rim, and the spec sheet lists the exact rough-in by model number. Keep that spec sheet. When it's missing, we match the fixture by measurement on site.
Bradford Remodeling Co Fort Worth is an independent contractor, not affiliated with Toto. We install and rough in for the fixtures, but we don't sell or warranty the fixtures themselves.
Styles & brands we work with







Signs Your Toto Home Additions & ADU Is Failing
Most Toto-related failures in additions and ADUs aren't the fixture. They're the rough-in, the framing, or the slab work behind it. Here's what we see in Fort Worth:
- Rocking toilet or gap at the base. The floor flange was set too high or the subfloor wasn't leveled before tile. Toto's skirted bases hide the gap from view, but the movement stresses the wax ring and the supply connection. Left alone, it leaks into the subfloor.
- Washlet loses pressure mid-cycle. Nine times out of ten, this is a shared supply line problem or an undersized pressure-balancing valve, not the unit. We verify line pressure at the rough-in before we touch the fixture.
- Wet spot or staining on the ceiling below the addition bathroom. The waste arm wasn't pitched correctly, or a supply fitting is weeping inside the floor cavity. Fort Worth's clay-heavy soil shifts, and slab penetrations move over time.
- Electrical dead spot on the wall behind the toilet. The Washlet outlet was placed outside the fixture's cord reach, or the GFCI trips when the heater kicks on. Toto spec sheets give the exact outlet placement. Miss it and the drywall work is wasted.
- Condensation or sweating on the tank in summer. Fort Worth humidity means the cold supply line needs insulation inside unconditioned wall chases. Skip it, and you'll get moisture on the drywall and eventually mold behind the baseboard.
See the difference
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After
Before
After
Before
AfterReplacement Cost & What's Included

Here's the straight pricing for Fort Worth. A full addition with a bathroom rough-in for Toto fixtures runs $45,000 to $130,000. An attached or detached ADU runs $90,000 to $220,000. A garage conversion with a new bath lands at $30,000 to $80,000. If you're only correcting a failed rough-in in an existing addition, the job is usually scoped as part of the bathroom remodel work, which runs $9,000 to $28,000 depending on where the walls and slab are open.
What drives the range: slab work versus crawlspace (most Fort Worth homes are slab, which costs more), how far the waste line needs to run to the existing stack, whether the addition needs its own water heater or pressurization loop, and whether the Toto model is a standard rough-in or an in-wall carrier. Every written price includes the parts we supply, the labor, the permit pull, and the inspection. The price we hand you is the price you pay. No change orders unless you change the scope.
Every job is covered by the 365-Day Done Right Promise. If anything we touched fails inside one year, we come back and correct it at no charge. That's in writing, on every contract.
DIY or Call Us?
What you can check yourself is worth knowing: confirm the model number sticker inside the tank, check water pressure at a hose bib (you want 40 PSI or better), and look for any wet spots or rocking movement. Those three things tell us more than a phone call.
What you should not do is cut into a slab or move a waste line. Fort Worth slab work means concrete cutting, rebar location, and re-pitching a drain under a foundation that shifts with our clay soil. Get that wrong and you're looking at a cracked slab, a trapped waste line, or a leak that doesn't show up for a year. Electrical rough-in for a Washlet is also not a weekend project: a dedicated GFCI circuit behind the wall is code, and code exists for a reason. If the floor is open or the wall is open, call us at (682) 204-4897 and we'll give you a written price before any work starts.
FAQs

A properly done rough-in with the right supply pressure and waste pitch should outlast the fixture, 20 to 30 years. The weak points are the supply connections and the wax ring, both of which are cheap to replace when access is open. Call (682) 204-4897 if you're seeing signs of failure.
Yes, often. If the walls are open and the drain pitch is correct, we can reblock for an in-wall carrier, add a dedicated circuit, or re-seat a flange without tearing anything else apart. If the slab penetration is in the wrong place, that's a dig-out and repair. We'll tell you which one you're looking at before you sign anything.
A rough-in correction inside an open wall is usually done in two to three days including inspection. A slab waste-line move runs a week or more depending on concrete cure time. We schedule inspections as part of the scope, not as an afterthought.
We stock the consumables: flanges, wax rings, supply lines, angle stops, pressure-balancing valves, and GFCI hardware for Washlet rough-ins. The fixtures themselves come from your supplier or ours, ordered by model number so there's no guesswork at install.
Written by Curtis Lane, Owner, Bradford Remodeling Co Fort Worth at Bradford Remodeling Co Fort Worth, serving Fort Worth and nearby areas.


